The Blog

Category Archives: People

-

LATIFA ECHAKHCH

This interview between Frieze New York Frieze Projects artist Latifa Echakhch and curator Cecilia Alemani was originally published in the Frieze New York bespoke newspaper created by Mulberry and Construct London.

The displacement of objects contradicts perception in the installations of 
Latifa Echakhch – for Frieze Projects she brings home the iconography of the American West.

Latifa Echakhch is a Moroccan artist based in Martigny, Switzerland. Her installations and sculptural interventions frequently populate galleries and public spaces in Europe and the Unites States. Recently the solo exhibitions “From threshold to threshold” at Museum Haus Esters, Kunstmuseen, Krefeld (2011) and “Le rappel des oiseaux” (The Call of the Birds) at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Bergamo (2010) celebrated her work.

Tkaf, 2011, Museum Haus Esters, Krefeld

Cecilia Alemani: For Frieze New York, you will install hundreds of tumbleweeds on the lush green grass at Randall’s Island. How did you come up with the idea?

Latifa Echakhch: The idea of using tumbleweeds comes from the Western movies I’ve watched. I have always been fascinated by these poor pieces of dry vegetation, which enter scenes only to accentuate moments of suspense, or underline the eeriness of deserted ghost towns and dry cities. I only learnt recently that it is completely natural for the plant to be carried away by the wind—leaving the ground to sow seeds as it tumbles along. They are an iconic part of the American landscape, and they are what I thought of when I was invited to do an outdoor project for Frieze New York.

Alemani: Every time I think of this project I imagine it as a mirage, an uncanny vision in the middle of nowhere. How do you think people will react to the installation?

Echakhch: I do not know how people will react, but when anybody sees tumbleweed, they know exactly what the plant implies; its meaning is logged in our collective memory.

Alemani: There is something slightly romantic about appropriating one of the most iconic symbols of Americana and translating it in such incongruous context. Do you often play on similar contrasts?

Echakhch: The island, with its gigantic psychiatric hospital — almost entirely abandoned — is such a specific context. The majority of the land is used for sport events or farming; it has a quiet promenade, but it’s not far from the crowded city. I imagine the island once all of the visitors have gone, when it is empty. I am interested in the fact that visitors will come from the city to discover something semi-rural, a place that looks like somewhere much further away than it actually is, and find something that accentuates that feeling.

Tumbleweeds, Frieze New York, 2012

Alemani: In other works, you have invited the viewer to re-examine a familiar object that is unexpectedly presented to us in an idiosyncratic context. Can you talk about this strategy of displacement?

Echakhch: This idea of strangeness is a central point in my interest in art, and I often accentuate it by using objects that you can recognize easily, placing them in situations or environments where you wouldn’t normally expect to find them. There is no mystery, no idea of genius, or extraordinary ability in the objects’ making. Doing this leaves only a few gaps for aesthetic fascination, so one can go directly to questioning the object itself and the context in which it is found.

Alemani: This is not your first public work. For “ILLUMInations” at the 54th Venice Biennale in 2011, you presented an installation of several flagpoles in the Giardini in front of the Italian Pavilion. How does your work change when presented outdoors, in a public space?

Echakhch: There aren’t that many differences, but conservation, sun damage, and risk of wind all come into play. On the island, the fragility of the installation is the opposite of the Fantasia (2011) installation in the Giardini in Venice. Maybe the fact that the work is outdoors accentuates the idea of landscape. In an indoor exhibition, it’s about the building of a landscape, as a viewer you can almost forget the objects and become completely absorbed as you walk through the installation itself, and then be surprised again when you step back and see the installation as a whole.

Fantasia, 2011, Venice Biennale

Alemani: Your work often seems to exist between physical sculptural presence and its dissolution: I am thinking of a work like Erratum (2004–9), in which you smashed several Moroccan tea glasses against the gallery wall. Can you talk about this polarity?

Echakhch: The difference is between the gesture and its meaning. First, the sculptural installation is aesthetic, contemplative, and it’s mostly about colour, materiality, and space. One can also recompose the temporality of the gesture: the how, the why, and what is behind its intention.

Alemani: Your work seems to hover between a very poetic approach and a deep political involvement. How do you reconcile these two elements in your work?

Echakhch: Poetry is a system of feelings, but also an end in itself. It can be so easy to construct but also so difficult to find, because there is nothing more fragile than the poetry around us. In the same way, I consider the political in an art work as a layer of understanding that could easily be ignored, like it often is in society. But because there is so much around us, in history and in other objects or images, it has to carry a kind of necessity. I just organize, in different ways, how one edits, perceives, and considers these two layers in the installations I make; from there the viewer is free to take it as far as they want.

  Back to top
-

NATALIE BERGMAN ON STYLE

US brother-sister duo Wild Belle performed an exclusive set at the Mulberry party at the Coachella Festival last week. During their visit lead singer Natalie Bergman chatted to us about what style means to her: who has it, her inspirations and why David Bowie has a whole lot of it.

  Back to top
-

COACHELLA FRIENDS

We hosted an exclusive pool party at the Parker Hotel in Palm Springs to celebrate Coachella 2012.

Kate Bosworth in a printed tee from AW12

Kate Bosworth in a printed tee from AW12

Lily Collins and Emma Watson

Lily Collins and Emma Watson

Lily Collins and Emma Hill

Lily Collins and Emma Hill

Monster lilos in the Mulberry pool

Monster lilos in the Mulberry pool

Laura Love on a Mulberry monster lilo

Laura Love on a Mulberry monster lilo

Lily Collins and Kate Bosworth

Lily Collins and Kate Bosworth

Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor and a Bryn in Flame from AW12

Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor and a Bryn in Flame from AW12

Arizona Muse with her Del Rey bag from AW12

Arizona Muse with her Del Rey bag from AW12

Michael Polish and Kate Bosworth

Michael Polish and Kate Bosworth

Dree Hemingway

Dree Hemingway

Laura Love

Laura Love

Harley Viera Newton

Harley Viera Newton

Enjoying the watermelon martinis!

Enjoying the watermelon martinis!

Models and monsters

Models and monsters

We kept warm around the firepit on Friday night

We kept warm around the firepit on Friday night

Cara Delevingne and Azaelia Banks

Cara Delevingne and Azaelia Banks

Andrew Bevan and Kate Bosworth

Andrew Bevan and Kate Bosworth

Cara Delevingne

Cara Delevingne

Tali Lennox

Tali Lennox

  Back to top
-

WILD BELLE

Watch new American band Wild Belle perform at the Mulberry Coachella party in Palm Springs.

Krissi Murison from NME interviewed the brother-sister duo during tea on the lawn at the Parker Hotel.

  Back to top
-

INTERVIEWING METRONOMY

Krissi Murison from NME speaks to Joseph Mount from British band Metronomy over a game of croquet at the Parker Hotel in Palm Springs.

  Back to top
-

KASABIAN

Watch Kasabian’s exclusive acoustic performance of L.S.F from the Mulberry Coachella party in Palm Springs.

Krissi Murison from legendary music magazine NME interviewed Serge and Tom from before their performance.

  Back to top
-

INTERVIEWING THE VACCINES

Krissi Murison from NME interviews British band The Vaccines before the Mulberry Coachella party in Palm Springs.

  Back to top
-

ANDY HILLMAN

Set Designer Andy Hillman created the fantastic world of melting ice-creams and giant candy sticks of rock for our Spring Summer 2012 campaign. He has worked with photographer Tim Walker on many campaigns and shoots, including features in Vogue. He often works with oversized props and with large scale set installations.

Andy Hillman Studio >

The oversized props for the campaign shoot are amazing! What was your starting point for their creation?

Thank you. I suppose the real starting point is the slight “wrong-ness” of the seaside, it’s a Victorian Circus of stripes, designs and colours which has been laminated with varying elements of the decades since. It’s not planned or designed, it’s just evolved. I think there’s lots of starting points amongst that lot if you look!

How long did it take to make a giant melting ice-cream cone or a stick of rock?

It took three weeks to create all the props for the shoot.

An Andy Hillman-created melting ice-cream

You’ve worked with Tim Walker numerous times now, how is it to work with him?

Haha, I know whatever I say here will cringe him out if he reads this. He is a pleasure to work with and for and easily one of the most creative and inspiring people I know.

How do you think English seasides and the eccentricities they come with compare with seasides around the world?

I think the British have the market sewn up for eccentrics and as a lot of them also enjoy the beach we must be beyond compare! I love British beaches but I prefer mine with dunes, cricket and picnics.

Part of a giant bespoke stick of rock candy

How did you get into the fantastical world of set design, and can you tell us about your most memorable designs or shoots?

I was lucky enough to understudy and assist an amazing designer for four years; it was a fantastic education into sets. Staying on the topic of the seaside and beaches, we once built a bathroom on a Sicilian Beach for a shoot which was supposed to be flooding as if you had left the tap on. It took three long days with the wind blowing sideways and sand clinging to everything. We dragged it to the water’s edge to allow the tide to roll back in and “flood” the set. We waited and waited as the sea crept nearer. Finally the second the first meaningful wave hit, the whole thing fell apart, or exploded, I’m not quite sure which!

The SS12 campaign set up

  Back to top
-

FIVE MINUTES WITH YASMIN SEWELL

Your name:

Yasmin Sewell, creative consultant and trend forecaster.

Where did we meet you?:

In your lovely Mulberry offices!

My earliest fashion memory is my mum making taffeta dresses with her Singer sewing machine in the 80′s – one of them was a one-shoulder number and it blew my mind.

My insider’s tip for next season? Printed puffer jackets – in fact anything voluminous on top is good.

To me, Mulberry stands for creativity and luxury, with a touch of British eccentricity.

The five things I can’t live without are my son, Knox Rocket, my Polly Push Lock bag, my vast collection of man-style shirts, Sky on Demand for when I miss my favourite TV shows and Alexandra Soveral’s ‘Sleepy Head’ oil.

It’s not just because I’m biased, but I do think London is the most exciting and innovative Fashion Week destination. It just always feels vibrant.

Hairy, scary (in a good way), fury, wild and brilliant – that’s how I would sum up Mulberry Autumn Winter 2012 show.

Yasmin Sewell

  Back to top
-

JACQUELINE CULLEN

Jacqueline Cullen is a British contemporary jewellery designer who creates hand-crafted pieces out of rare jet: a prehistoric black fossil previously associated with Victorian mourning jewellery. We came across her beautiful work when Brand Director Georgia Fendley became Jacqueline’s mentor as part of the Crafted programme, which supports contemporary British craft.

Jacqueline Cullen >

Jacqueline spoke to us about her work, her inspirations and the skills of working with jet, as well as sharing some of her sketches, jewellery pieces and the gorgeous, refined packaging created by London-based design agency and long-time Mulberry collaborators Construct London.

A glimpse of Jacqueline's sketch book

“Jet is simply fossilised tree trunk (from an ancestor to the monkey tree) from approximately 180 million years ago. It first became commonly used as Victorian mourning jewellery: Queen Victoria wore it after Prince Albert died and this started a trend. However, the jet fell out of favour with designers and around 100 years ago it stopped being mined altogether. I use Whitby jet: it’s better quality than you can find abroad, but it’s not easy to come by! A contact of mine abseils down the cliffs in Whitby to access small old mines and caves which contain it. You certainly don’t come across it accidentally.

There are designers who still work with jet but this is mostly based on Victorian replica jewellery. I work with the jet in a very contemporary way: manipulating it into shapes and edges that interest me, and I’m often inspired by dramatic acts of nature – volcanic eruptions, erosion, the beauty in the imperfections of nature. Jet is not always easy to work with: it is extremely dusty, and I have to use specially-designed tools like diamond-tipped saws and water beds to control the levels of black dust produced. It is so interesting to work with though, no two pieces I create are ever the same: the texture of the jet means one piece may be more jagged or corrupted than the other. I can do approximations of the same design, but it is never a complete match – a piece of jewellery from me is unique to you.

As a jeweller, your bench peg is your best friend. It shows all the work that went into the production of a particular piece, you can see all the wear and tear – it’s a lovely craft story in itself. I know many people who keep theirs even when it can no longer be used, as it tells the story of all your creations.”

A raw piece of Whitby jet

A raw piece of Whitby jet

A fish head drawing, starting inspiration point

A fish head drawing, starting inspiration point

Initial inspiration design sketches for a piece

Initial inspiration design sketches for a piece

Jacqueline working with the jet at her specialist machine

Jacqueline working with the jet at her specialist machine

Signature hand-carved ring

Signature hand-carved ring

A signature hand-carved panel bracelet

A signature hand-carved panel bracelet

Black packaging references the intense dark jet

Black packaging references the intense dark jet

A bespoke seal created for packaging

A bespoke seal created for packaging

A finished piece in its individual box

A finished piece in its individual box

Packaging images courtesy of Construct
All other images courtesy of Jacqueline Cullen

  Back to top